Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts

Thursday, November 7

Book review on the run: The Blind Masseuse

A couple of weeks ago I received a preview copy of a new travel memoir, The Blind Masseuse: A Traveler's Memoir from Costa Rica to Cambodia, by Alden Jones...

I raved about it in an earlier blog post:
It's FANTASTIC. (And I'm not just saying that because the book was free. I've received many free books over the years, and if they're horrible, I either don't post a review or I tell it straight that the book sucked.)
... but this book was, indeed, fantastic. And I promised that I'd write an actual review.

The Blind Masseuse is a well-crafted travel memoir, but the book is also a deeper reflection on culture, travel, and tourism, and how those concepts intersect and conflict. (But that somewhat scientific explanation of the book's themes hardly do it justice.)

One of my favorite quotes comes early on in the book and set the tone as I hurried through the pages:
"While tourists spend their time away from home seeking out the comforts of home, travelers risk - even cultivate - discomfort, because what they want is the thrill of a new perspective."
That sentence stopped me in my tracks: Am I a tourist? Or am I a traveler?

As I followed Jones' trips around the world, which she admittedly makes both as a traveler and as a tourist, I kept returning to that question. And perhaps that's why the book was so compelling. Certainly Jones' writing style is engaging, and her travel adventures are at times humorous and at times poignant, but what sets this book apart from other travel memoirs is that it kept me thinking not only about the adventures of the narrator, but also about the larger context in which we explore our world (and in which I explore the world).

If we are tourists, we are merely brushing by the culture and humanity of a new or foreign place. We cling to the familiar and take photos of the foreign. We return with a scrapbook, but with no larger understanding of the world than we had when we left, ticket in hand.

If we are travelers, we immerse ourselves in all of the discomfort that comes with being out of our element. We delight in getting lost in a city, and then finding our way. We revel in learning a new word, trying a new flavor, or living on a different schedule. But eventually the unfamiliar becomes familiar. Ultimately it becomes our new reality. It's no longer foreign. And then, perhaps, we go off in search of a new adventure. Or, perhaps, we leave sooner than we might... afraid that the mystery of a favorite place will wear off if it becomes home instead of a destination.

And, try as we might, maybe even the most dedicated traveler has tourist moments. Jones writes:
"There is no disarming all of what we know, no matter how much touching and kneading and feeling we do, no matter how much we think we're trying. What makes us blind is what we think we see."
I can think of times in my own travels (both the short-term vacation kind and the lived in 5 different states and 4 different time zones kind) when no truer words could describe how I felt... thrilled at the prospect of a new adventure, but - at first - still filtering all of that new information through my old lens. It felt thoroughly reassuring, reading Jones' book, to know that even the most dedicated globetrotter has tourist moments, too.

Lest you think that the philosophical musings overwhelm the book, I assure you that the travel memoir is brilliantly written. Jones' history of her time in Costa Rica begins with the pleasantly disorienting title "Lard is Good for You." Her time in Bolivia is enlightening, if somewhat less than welcoming (picture getting caught in the middle of massive, and sometimes violent public protests over water prices). And her cruise around the world... well I'll let you read that for yourself.

So whether you're a tourist or a traveler, whether you've circumnavigated the world or you explore via the Travel Chanel from the comfort of your armchair: read this book. You will not be disappointed.

Tuesday, March 19

Postcards from Maui (guest post)

While I've covered quite a lot of ground, I haven't been everywhere. (Yet...) So, I've enlisted some help from local experts in the "Postcards" series of running travel guides.

Today, we're going to Maui!

Our running tour guide is DC native and runner, Tai Fung. Tai is a regular run-chatter on Twitter and has been giving me pointers about what to do when I move to DC later this year. In the meantime, he's going to take us on a tour of his favorite vacation destination: Maui. So sit back, relax, and enjoy the trip.

Belated greetings from Maui!

I appreciate Beth letting me guest post this tale of my time in Maui, along with my experience running it. I travel to Maui yearly (or have, over the past few years), and stay on the west side. Maui is kinda shaped like a sideways number 8, with the left/west circle a little smaller than the right/east one.

Fortunately, based on the amount I eat and drink while I'm there, there are plenty of things to do, activity wise, so those Mai-Tai calories can find a little outlet. And really, would a guy with my handle drink anything ELSE?
Tai's Mai-Tai
I'm usually in Kahana, Maui, which is not far from the former capital of Hawaii, pre-statehood, Lahaina ("La-hi-nah," which translates roughly as "cruel/relentless/unforgiving sun").  Arriving in Maui, my full-blooded Italian roots kick in, and I quickly tan up, but if you're of a more fair complexion, bring or buy sunscreen -- the waterproof kind!

You'll see lots of morning runners in West Maui, and waving to each other seems to be the custom (even in my home of Washington, DC, I usually flash the Hawaiian "hang loose" wave when passing runners, since, after all, wouldn't we all rather be in Hawaii?).

In the Kahana region of Maui, there are two primary roads of interest, known as the "upper" and "lower" roads.  The "upper" road, is just Highway 30, the Honoapiilan Highway. This is where you'll get a lot of good, uninterrupted mileage. But beware! It is HILLY, and you'll often have a wind either going or coming. But run against traffic, and you'll get an excellent run in. Scenery-wise, there isn't a LOT that you'll see, although at certain points along the road, you can stop and watch the ocean. Wait long enough, and you'll see (male) Humpback Whales breaching, slapping fins, or otherwise trying to find a lady whale to make "friends" with (I guess these whales haven't discovered Match.com). But the whales are only there in the winter, and if you're out running on the highway, you'll want to keep moving before you're baked to a crisp (you DID put on sunscreen for this run, didn't you??).

I snapped this picture after running along the upper highway, and then headed down to the beach to cool off.  That's not a camera trick.  That's just the biggest rainbow you've ever seen.
Maui Rainbow
The "lower" road is called the (wait for it!) LOWER Honoapiilani Highway(!).  This is a little more challenging for a hard run, but if you're looking for an easy, I'm-on-vacation run, you'll want to run here. You'll be with tons of runners doing slower paces (often because of walkers, driveways, etc), but you can see amazing views.  One of my favorite stops is Pohaku Park, nicknamed "S-turns" by the locals.  From here,  you can often see Green Sea Turtles swimming in the waves, and muching on the Limu (algae) on the rocks.
Beautiful views while on the run in Maui
As for beach running itself -- I advise against it.  Hawaii, at least Maui, is pretty rocky in places. You won't go as far as you think before you have to turn back, or move up to a road. On the plus side, walking the beaches is lovely as a post-run cooldown, because you can find amazing lava rocks. Here's one I found that formed a perfect little heart:
Heart-shaped lava rock
Bearing in mind the fate of Greg Brady, I threw it back after photographing it. Hawaiians take very seriously the removal of lava rocks from their home, and that a curse follows those who do. So don't, or be in deep doo-doo. Dig?

Sorry.  Anyway.


I have more pictures on my Instagram account, including a simulated picture of Steven Tyler (who I literally almost ran into in Lahaina).

Oh!  One thing before I finish up -- West Maui does have the lovely highway 30 for running great distances, but do NOT try and run in Lahaina, along their lower road, called "Front Street." It can't be done. Tourists abound. Kids. Cars. The odd homeless surfer who also happens to think he's Jesus Christ (really). Go there for a wonderful, memorable visit, but get your run in another time.

Finally, if you're really itching to race, check out the Maui Oceanfront Marathon, which features many different distances, and runs along some really lovely areas of West Maui, including Lahaina (when delusional surfers are shoo'd away).

Find me on Twitter, Instagram, or my own blog.

Aloha, and Mahalo to Beth for this opportunity!

Monday, February 11

Laissez les bon temps rouler!

As I wrote last year, Mardi Gras is a Gulf Coast thing, not just a New Orleans thing.
Krewe da Ya Yas, Pensacola Mardi Gras parade

King cake
Hubby and I have been stuffing ourselves with king cake since January 6th.

King cake is a Carnival holiday staple, but watch out. There's a "baby king" hidden inside. If you get the baby in your slice #1 - be careful that you don't chip a tooth, and #2 - you're on the hook for bringing next year's cake.

While New Orleans gets all the media attention for its Mardi Gras madness, the entire Gulf Coast goes crazy for this holiday. In fact Mobile, AL is credited with the first Mardi Gras celebration in 1703 (or 1699 - depends on who you ask).

Mardi Gras revelry was suspended during the Civil War, but was revived (again) in Mobile in 1866. Legend has it that that one man, Joe Cain, rode through the streets on a coal cart, dressed in Chickasaw Indian regalia. Obviously, Joe was also drunk as a skunk (which explains a lot about Mardi Gras parades...)

When Joe passed on, his second funeral procession (it's a long story) was the precursor to the big Sunday parades. Now the Sunday before Mardi Gras is now known in Mobile as "Joe Cain Day," with celebrations rivaling Fat Tuesday.

To an outsider, it seems like the party just keeps adding days (but I'm not complaining)! So here's the schedule:
Mardi Gras costumes from the Krewe of Bowlegs
exhibit in Fort Walton Beach, FL
  • January 6th, Epiphany kicks off the season. Krewes put the finishing touches on their floats. Carnival celebrations and masquerade balls fill up the social calendar.
  • Saturday before Fat Tuesday - parades and partying begin in earnest
  • Sunday before Fat Tuesday - Joe Cain Day (at least in Mobile, AL)
  • Monday before Fat Tuesday - Lundi Gras (You thought I made that one up, didn't you!)
  • 40 days before Easter - Fat Tuesday / Mardi Gras!
  • ...followed by Ash Wednesday (or "hangover recovery day?")
Pensacola's Mardi Gras parades are far more family-friendly than those in the Big Easy. Here in Florida you will not see people flashing their chests for beads. In fact, that sort of behavior will get you hauled away by the local police. (Apologies to anyone who was hoping for scandalous photos...)
Beads!
Krewes here throw beads, candy, moon pies, and other goodies to everyone in the crowd. (A Krewe, pronounced "crew," is a social club that centers around Mardi Gras parades, festivals, and usually hosts a formal Mardi Gras ball for krewe members.)
Krewe of Seville, Pensacola Mardi Gras parade (note Wonder Woman on the bottom tier of the float)
Most of the beads and decorations are purple, gold, and green.
  • Purple represents justice.
  • Green for faith.
  • Gold for power.

Purple, gold, and green have been the primary colors of Mardi Gras for more than a century, according to most accounts.

History aside, the 4-day holiday weekend is still a bit of a drunkfest, but it's all in good fun. There's time for being a proper adult the other 361 days of the year.

Laissez les bon temps rouler!

Do you have any Mardi Gras stories to share?
Right now my dining room looks like a bead factory exploded... Maybe one of these days I'll figure out how to work those into a giveaway?

Tuesday, January 22

Postcards from Austin (arts, music, culture)

When we left our heroes on their travel adventure in Austin, they finished a run around Town Lake and enjoyed a wide variety of culinary adventures. They also got a healthy dose of arts and culture. Let's see where they went...

The capitol was an impressive architectural and historical site.
Capitol as seen from the rose garden
 As more than 260 feet from the rotunda floor, the capitol dome is vertigo-inducing.
Capitol dome
And the stairway to the top is a good workout...
Flights of stairs in the Capitol.
We went on a free tour of the Texas state capitol...
One of the capitol tour stops
 ... where we discovered, among other things, that nearly every fixture boasts either the lone star or the word "TEXAS."
Lone star logo.
After the capitol, we spent several hours at the the Bullock Texas State History Museum. Much like Texas itself, the museum is huge.

The exhibit on women's rights was particularly captivating. Unfortunately photography is not allowed in the museum, so I have no photos to share.

On the other side of the museum-size-spectrum, the tiny Old Bakery and Emporium, just south of the capitol, is a neat place to stop. Arts and crafts for sale on the lower level are all hand made by Austin seniors. Proceeds from the shop support senior programs.

The upper level showcases a brief history of Austin.
Old Bakery
No trip to Austin would be complete without music.

We hung out at Maggie Mae's...
Maggie Mae's
... and had cocktails at The Firehouse Lounge during a jam session. The "lounge" is really a cozy little music space in a hostel. The drinks were good. The music was good. I'd recommend a visit.
Firehouse Lounge
Austin's quirky culture is a definite highlight of any visit. On New Year's Eve, locals gathered to give out free hugs.

The city also has a thriving art scene. We stumbled upon a shop dedicated to lomography, which was described to us as an analog photography movement.
Huge wall mosaic of staff photos
Speaking of art... Austin seems to be the bronze sculpture capital of Texas. There are dozens of statues and monuments on the grounds around the Capitol. There are sculptures depicting pioneer history...
Tejano history sculpture at the Capitol
...and glorifying cowboy life.
Texas Cowboy
The city also acknowledges its musical history with statues of Willie Nelson and Stevie Ray Vaughan.
Stevie Ray Vaughan
But my favorite statue was an unexpected discovery on 6th Ave.

The bronze of Angelina Eberly commemorates Eberly's successful bid to maintain Austin as the capital of Texas when then-governor Sam Houston attempted to move the seat of government to Houston.
Angelina Eberly
According to the historical account:
When the citizens of Austin resisted his attempts to move the capitol, Houston sent a delegation of Texas Rangers to steal the government archives. They would have succeeded if it had not been for a fiery local innkeeper named Angelina Eberly, who heard the rangers loading their wagons in the middle of the night. She hurried down to the the corner of what is now Sixth and Congress and fired off the town cannon, missing the rangers but blowing a hole in the General Land Office building. The cannon fire roused the populace, who chased down the rangers and recovered the archives near Brushy Creek.
And so we ended our whirlwind tour of Austin with a bang.

What sorts of activities do you seek out when you travel?

Places to go

The New York Times recently published a list of 46 places to go in 2013.

Image source
What I like about the list: While some of the recommended locations are travel staples (Isn't Ireland on every travel list?), many of the suggestions are off the tourist-beaten path.

It's rare that I come across a Places-To-See! list on which I've seen so very few of the places.

46 Places to Go in 2013
  1. Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
  2. Marseille, France
  3. Nicaragua
  4. Accra, Ghana
  5. Bhutan
  6. Amsterdam, The Netherlands
  7. Houston, TX, United States
  8. Rossland, BC, Canada
  9. New Delhi, India
  10. Istanbul, Turkey
  11. Singapore
  12. Montenegro
  13. White Salmon River, WA, United States
  14. Hvar, Croatia
  15. Mongolia
  16. The Big Island, HI, United States
  17. Philippines
  18. Vernazza, Italy
  19. The Kimberley, Australia
  20. Ningxia, China
  21. The Adirondacks, NY, United States
  22. Oslo, Norway
  23. Constantia, South Africa
  24. Lithuania
  25. Burgos, Spain
  26. Lens, France
  27. Changbaishan, China
  28. Porto, Portugal
  29. Puerto Rico
  30. Koh Phangan, Thailand
  31. Kalpitiya, Sri Lanka
  32. Jackson Hole, WY, United States
  33. Bangkok, Thailand
  34. The Jeseniky, Czech Republic
  35. Waiheke, New Zealand
  36. Yucatan, Mexico
  37. Charlevoix, Quebec
  38. Pecs, Hungary
  39. Republic of Congo
  40. Ireland
  41. Getaria, Spain
  42. Mergui Islands, Myanmar
  43. The Falkland Islands
  44. Washington, DC, United States
  45. Casablanca, Morocco
  46. Paris, France

What I dislike about the list: I've added country information for each destination, but the original list is a confusing mix-and-match of cities and countries, regions and specific locations. For example, the Kimberley region in Australia is bigger than Germany, while White Salmon River seems an oddly exact choice on a list that includes such broad travel destinations as Nicaragua and Mongolia.

Nevertheless, it's thought-provoking catalogue of travel destinations.

Would I have included Bhutan on my travel bucket list before reading the Times?
Perhaps not...
Then again, I wouldn't have picked Houston, either.

Completing the list: Out of the 46 selected destinations, my somewhat anemic tally is 2.5
(DC, Puerto Rico, and a drive-by of Jackson Hole)

How many of these places have you visited?
How many are on your travel bucket list?
What location(s) would you add to the list?


Thursday, January 17

Postcards from Austin (dining out)

When we last left our heroes on their travel adventure in Austin, they had just finished a run around Town Lake and were headed to 24 diner where they beat the crowds to demolish huge plates of food...
Being awake early (and not hung over) on New Years Day
meant we beat the brunch rush...
Brunch of champions:
deviled eggs, strong coffee, and steel-cut oats with apple chutney at 24 Diner.
Thanks to the recommendations of an ol' grad school pal, we also dined at Trudy's and the South Congress Cafe. The cafe, like many restaurants in Austin, serves brunch until late in the day so I enjoyed carrot cake french toast at 3pm.
Carrot cake french toast and venison sausage at South Congress Cafe
Goat cheese salad at South Congress Cafe
A word to the wise: The lines are long and the dining areas are crowded at every popular restaurant in Austin. Be prepared to wait an hour for a seat and to dine elbow-to-elbow with the strangers at the next table.

We spent quite a lot of time staring at the front door of the South Congress Cafe... (but the food was delicious).
South Congress Cafe
The Texas Chili Parlor was the one place where we didn't have to wait for a table. Soooo divey. But soooo delicious. The restaurant is a favorite among local UT fans. (Be forewarned, the XXX chili is not for the faint of heart, but then neither is this restaurant...)
Texas Chili Parlor
(I tried to take photos of my chili, but it was too dark inside to get a good pic.)
Austin also has a thriving food truck scene. Hubby enjoyed Torchy's Tacos...
Torchy's tacos: an Austin favorite
... while I browsed a nearby open-air market.
Arts market on South Congress
I am both ashamed and proud to admit that I ate several meals at the Whole Foods flagship store on Lamar and 6th.
Whole Foods
The store has the fresh produce, whole grains, unique spices, and healthy foods you'd expect at a Whole Foods... (with crowds galore)
Floral section of Whole Foods Austin
... and also has a series of cafe-style mini restaurants within the market, along with the biggest salad bar I've ever seen.

Seriously, if you're in Austin, go to the store. Eat there. Browse the beer cave (yes there is a beer cave). It will not disappoint.
Brew pub "cafe" within Whole Foods
Speaking of beer... the nightlife scene in Austin offers something to suit almost any taste. Be prepared to stay up late.

And not for nothing... the bartenders in this town make a mean margarita. Look for "Mexican martinis" on many bar menus (a double margarita served in a cocktail shaker is often the economical purchase if you plan to have more than one).
Margaritas: The Skinny & The Silver Spur at The Iron Cactus (6th & Trinity)
We'll end this culinary adventure where the (actual) trip began... The Salt Lick Bar-B-Que just north of the city in Round Rock, TX.
Slicing brisket at The Salt Lick
We feasted on ribs, smokey brisket, smoked sausages, baked beans, potato salad, coleslaw, pickles, and onions. (No Texas bbq plate is complete without a side of pickles and onions.)

What's your favorite style of barbecue?
Favorite post-run meal?

Tuesday, January 15

Postcards from Austin

Sometimes postcards get lost in the mail and the sender returns home before the postcard arrives...

Greetings from Austin (and Happy New Year)!
Ringing in the New Year at Wine Dive in Austin
There is an abundance of good food, good running, and good recreation in Austin. Trying to pack all of that into one postcard would be like trying to shove an oversized suitcase into the overhead compartment on a regional jet. It just shouldn't be done...

(Read: You can expect more than one postcard from this trip.)

So, first, let's talk about the running...

Run 1: Covert Park at Mount Bonnell

Covert Park, at Mount Bonnell, is the Highest Point in Austin!
Plaque at the parking area
It is (please don't laugh) 775 feet above sea level.

So... perhaps calling Bonnell a "mount" is too strong a term, but the views of the Austin city skyline and of the lake/river are worth the many-stair climb to get to the "peak."
Some of the many stairs to get to the top of the "mount"
Full disclosure: I didn't run this trail, I hiked it, but the route would make for a nice, short, hilly course or a useful location for hill repeats. I did spy runners among the photo-taking tourists.
Trail to the top (alternate route if you want to skip the stairs)
View from the peak
The view of lake-side real estate made me wonder what it's like to live in a house in which thousands of strangers can look straight into your backyard every day...
The views take in the lake and sprawling real estate below

Run 2: Lady Bird Johnson Trail (aka Town Lake Trail)

The Town Lake Trail is, far and away, the most popular runner, biker, hiker, dog-walker spot in the city.
Trailhead at Congress Ave
We went for a run at dusk, thinking we'd need to hurry to make it back to our hotel before dark. But the trail was surprisingly busy, even after sunset.
North side of the Town Lake Trail through downtown Austin
More Town Lake Trail
The trail goes under, over, around, and through a series of bridges...
Crossing under a bridge on Town Lake Trail
View from one of the bridges along the trail
View of downtown Austin from a trail-side pavilion.
And past some unique art...
Artists are very creative with the scenery.
Old pilings become a sea monster in Town Lake.
Call it street art. Call it graffiti. Either way, keep your eyes open for whimsical messages, social commentary, and random acts of art.
"The only magic I still believe in is love"
Pac-Man graffiti tells you "don't give up."
"Don't give up" graffiti seen in the distance (middle right) from the pedestrian bridge. Click here for closeup.
Ghost bikes remind people (especially drivers) about cycling safety.
Ghost bikes
And there's art every runner could love. (The sculpture is cool, but I suspect the artist wasn't a runner. No runner has ever bent in quite that way... Trust me. I tried.)
Running man statue near Town Lake Trail

Run 3: More Town Lake Trail and an accidental 5k

On our last day in town, Hubby and I headed out to explore the other side of the lake.
Crossing the bridge at Congress Ave
The view from the south side is pretty impressive...
View of the city from Town Lake Trail
As we were running, we heard the distant crackle of a loudspeaker.

Then we heard the national anthem.

We paused.

And when the song ended, we both said "There's a race!" So, we did what any good runner-tourist would do, we bandited we ran over to the starting line of the Commitment Day 5k to take photos and cheer on the runners.
Yes, that's me looking like a bandit.
No. I did not bandit the race.
When the runners passed, we took off to finish our run.

We said hi to Stevie Ray Vaughan.
Stevie Ray Vaughan statue at Town Lake
We crossed back over the race course on the Pfluger pedestrian bridge and cheered some more.

... and we finished our run at 24 Diner.
(More on that later.)